This popular culture researcher examines how the African concept of “cool” has been transformed in American culture.

Debora Johnson-Ross wears a cowry shell bracelet and ring for a reason.

"In African cultures, cowry shells are a connection to the spirit, a connection to the creator," said the assistant professor of political science and international studies.

American shoppers who see cowry shells on picture frames and necklaces may buy them because they’re trendy – not realizing that the shells historically have been valued, even serving as currency in African countries.

From cowry shells to locs to rap music, Americans – especially young Americans – are enthusiastically adopting African-American trends. What they may not know is that these signs of African-American culture directly mirror what African cultures consider cool – and what that means in other cultures.

In her research into African-American popular culture, Johnson-Ross explores the similarities between what African-Americans consider cool and what is seen as cool in African cultures, looking at similarities in music, dance, hairstyles, clothing, and other traditions.

In Africa, however, the outward symbols of cool are supposed to reflect an inner expression of the spirit, with signs of confidence and power showing spirituality, character, generosity, and grace, Johnson-Ross said.

"But in the American context we’ve lost the connection between cool and being composed in your character, in being diplomatic, in the connection with the spirit," she said.

As Johnson-Ross speaks on the topic, she finds her audiences particularly responsive – and willing to help her think of more examples of "cool" in American culture. She looks at nicknames of American athletes, and how white athletes are given harder nicknames such as Knute and Rocky while African-American athletes include Sugar Ray Leonard, Michael "Air" Jordan, and George "The Iceman" Gervin.

In December, Johnson-Ross gave the keynote address at an African-American celebration at Youngstown State. She will give a presentation at the "Globalizations and the African World" conference at Gettysburg College Feb. 28.

Borrowing the phrase "The Aesthetics of Cool" from cultural historian Robert Farris Thompson, Johnson-Ross is exploring the connection between African and African-American culture and trying to define how the African meaning of cool has been transformed in American culture.

"I don’t think we’ve totally lost that spiritual component. I just think we’ve lost the idea that cool originally came from the spirit," she said. "In this setting, cool is very individualistic. You don’t really think of cool as a communal or a spiritual concept."

Some of the symbols haven’t lost their significance as they have been adopted by Americans – at least among Johnson-Ross’s students. One student visited her just to show her a pair of cowry shell sandals she had bought.

"I saw them, and I had to liberate them," she told Johnson-Ross.

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